Portugal has stolen the limelight at the 2024 World Cheese Awards, held in the picturesque city of Viseu, with the triumph of Queijo de Ovelha Amanteigado, a buttery, spoonable sheep’s milk cheese crafted by Quinta do Pomar. Beating 4,786 entries from 47 countries, this artisanal cheese not only represents a pinnacle of Portuguese cheesemaking but also reflects a perfect blend of tradition, innovation, and terroir.
An Icon of Cheesemaking
Crafted with raw sheep’s milk and cardoon (a vegetarian thistle rennet), this award-winning cheese is celebrated for its gooey, almost liquid texture and balanced flavor profile. Describing its unique qualities, cheese expert Patrick McGuigan highlighted its “wonderful breakdown” and “lovely herbal bitterness,” exemplifying the equilibrium between richness and subtle bitterness that thistle rennet imparts. Cheesemaker Sonia Marroyo, speaking via video to an enthusiastic audience, described the win as deeply emotional, emphasizing that it was a “great team effort” and held special significance given the awards’ proximity to her business, just 40 miles away.
The cheese was praised by Super Jury member Manuel Maia during the grand finale as “a sublime match of protein and fat” and likened to “our Eiffel Tower” for its cultural and culinary significance.
A Record-Breaking Year
This 36th edition of the World Cheese Awards was the largest to date, with nearly 5,000 cheeses judged by an international panel of 240 experts, including cheese technologists, graders, chefs, retailers, and journalists. Over a single action-packed day, entries were assessed for appearance, aroma, texture, mouthfeel, and flavor, with winners receiving bronze, silver, or gold medals. From these, the top “Super Gold” cheeses advanced to the final stage, where an elite jury evaluated the 14 finalists.
Among the panel were luminaries such as Roland Barthélémy, president of France’s Guilde Internationale des Fromagers, and Turkish cheese author Neşe Biber, who ultimately crowned Quinta do Pomar’s creation as the best cheese on the planet.
The Triumph of Tradition and Innovation
This victory is not just a win for Quinta do Pomar but a celebration of Portuguese cheesemaking’s unique heritage. According to Guild of Fine Food Director John Farrand, the use of cardoon rennet rather than conventional rennet highlights the region’s traditional methods. “This cheese is extraordinary, a true representation of central Portugal’s cheesemaking identity,” he remarked. Farrand also noted the poignant twist of the winning cheesemaker, Sonia Marroyo, being Spanish yet crafting her masterpiece in Portugal—a testament to the cross-cultural spirit of artisanal food production.
Young Talent Shines Too
The event also saw the finals of the ‘Young Cheesemonger of the Year,’ with Bulgarian-born Daniel Iliev of Paxton & Whitfield crowned as the winner after showcasing his expertise through three rigorous rounds. Iliev’s success underscores the event’s role in nurturing new talent within the industry.
Portugal on the Global Cheese Map
As the cheese world reflects on this year’s awards, Portugal’s win places it firmly on the global culinary map. The success of Queijo de Ovelha Amanteigado celebrates not only the dedication of its makers but also the deep connection between food, culture, and the land it comes from. For visitors to Viseu, this cheese is more than a taste—it’s a symbol of Portuguese excellence and innovation.
With this iconic win, the stage is set for Portugal to continue elevating its reputation in the world of fine cheeses.
